Just 60 kilometers from the center of Saigon, and now officially a part of the city, is Cu Chi, an area that saw some of the fiercest fighting of the war, where the Americans "never lost a battle" and where the Viet Cong never lost control. The VC kept control with over 250 kilometers of tunnels whose significance, like so many other things, the Americans never understood. Today those tunnels are a major tourist attraction. They have become the Statue of Liberty and the Grand Canyon of every tourist in Vietnam—if you don't visit Cu Chi, you haven't seen Vietnam. When we arrived, the parking lot outside the park that was set up to preserve the caves was jammed with tour buses. Our guide told us to stick together. That wasn't easy—the different tour groups constantly bumped into and mixed with each other, and after all, all tourists look alike.